Sri Lanka and its two monsoons

Four seasons on one island

The Department of Meteorology divides the Sri Lankan year into four seasons. The first inter-monsoon falls in March and April. The southwest monsoon runs from May to September. The second inter-monsoon covers October and November, and the northeast monsoon runs from December to February.

The southwest monsoon brings most of its rain to the southwest of the island and the western slopes of the hills. The northeast monsoon brings rain to the north and east and to the eastern slopes. That is why one coast is usually at its best while the other is wet.

Planning around the rain

From December to March, the south and west coasts, Galle and the tea country are generally at their driest. From May to September, the beaches and bays of the east coast come into their own. The ancient cities of the Cultural Triangle sit in the drier middle of the island and work for much of the year.

The inter-monsoon months can bring heavy afternoon storms across the island. They are rarely a reason to stay away, but they are a reason to keep the plan loose and the drives short.

Whales off the south coast

Sri Lanka Tourism lists the whale and dolphin season off Mirissa as November to April. Boats leave Mirissa fisheries harbour at about 6.30 in the morning, and a trip takes three to four hours depending on the sea. Blue whales, sperm whales, Bryde’s whales and several kinds of dolphin are seen in these waters.

No sighting is guaranteed, and the sea can be rough. Choose an operator that keeps its distance from the animals and does not chase them, and go on a calm morning if you can.

The leopards of Yala

Yala National Park in the southeast is the island’s best-known place to look for leopards. The local naturalists on our map include field teams who work in Yala and Wilpattu and on the southern and western seas, and they can tell you how a given month is shaping up.